Author: Kathy McClelland

What does Immediate Damage Containment mean?

The Immediate Damage Containment (IDC) consists of removing the excess water/sewage, decontamination and installing dehumidification. The Damage Containment has to be completed immediately to prevent further damage, contamination and expenses. Most insurance policies require the insured (yourself) to unilaterally initiate “reasonable and prudent procedures necessary to mitigate the loss.” In other words, to preserve, protect and secure the property from further water damage and reducing the overall claim cost. Therefore, if you have coverage for this type of loss, your insurance company can’t deny your claim because you have not followed your policy requirements for coverage. (However, structural drying and secondary damage containment may be also necessary within 12 hours of the water loss. Check your policy for the details.)

During the IDC, your technician will be blocking and tabbing your furniture and possessions and removing the excess water/sewage to prevent further damage. He/she will also be moving all of the contents to the middle of the room to prepare for structural drying and/or renovation.

Your technician has been specifically trained and equipped to physically remove as much water from your home or business as possible. The primary responsibility of your Immediate Damage Containment Technician is to do a basic floor inspection, chart the affected areas and recommend the safest and quickest way to remove the excessive water. He/She will also install Low-Grain Dehumidification. He/She will give you an upfront estimate ONLY for the immediate damage containment before he/she begins the water removal.

Many items that look badly damaged may be able to be completely restored. Unfortunately, some items may be beyond restoration. However, in most cases, the damage can be avoided if the restorative drying process is begun without delay.

We can begin to reverse the effects of water damage by controlling where the water will “wick”. Wet will go to dry if it can, even if it is climbing up a wall. When high velocity commercial air movers (fans) are placed at the base of a wall that is wet, it can begin to reverse the wicking. Meaning as the air mover begins to dry the area directly in front of it; the near-by moisture begins to wick towards the new dry area. Remember, wet will go to dry if it can. Once that area is restored to its original moisture content, thereby preserving the structural integrity, the air mover is then moved to the next wet area.

Low-Grain, high temperature dehumidifiers are also placed in the affected area. These dehumidifiers remove the wet cold air and replace it with hot dry air. The hot dry air is then circulated to the air movers, which speeds up the drying process. Low-Grain simply means the unit puts out a much lower specific humidity or Grains of Moisture per pound than regular dehumidifiers. Our dehumidifiers remove the wet cold air and replace it with hot dry air. The hot dry air is then circulated to the air movers, which speeds up the drying process. Low-Grain simply means the unit puts out a much lower specific humidity or Grains of Moisture per pound than regular dehumidifiers. Our Grain depressions are as low as 28-30 grains per pound compared to that of your home air conditioning systems or your store bought dehumidifier which can produce as low as 60-65 grains per pound (specific humidity). The benefit for your, your home or business is that it dries within days rather than weeks or months. There is no chance for fungal growth. With the Phoenix and Injecti-dry System we can also dry structures such as hardwood floors, sill plates, sub-floors etc., that can’t be dried with the convectional refrigerant type dehumidifiers.

On average, we can dry the structure and contents of a saturated home or business in three to four days. 82% of the clean water damaged homes/businesses we dry, will need no repair at all, or only minor repairs such as spot painting and/or carpet cleaning. If additional repair is needed, Tuft Aide, Inc. has the qualified personnel to get the job done right!

Homeowners buy insurance to protect against disaster. But when disaster strikes, your insurer might not live up to your expectations, especially if you have a large claim. These days, homeowners insurance covers less and costs more.

Insurers often use contract language to avoid paying claims. For example, got hail coverage? Great. But if your roof is more than 10 or 15 years old, hail damage might be excluded. Even if you have a standard homeowners policy that covers an overflowing bathtub or burst or frozen water pipe plus flood insurance, you’re still out of luck if your sump pump can’t handle a monster downpour or if the sewer backs up —unless you pay $40 to $50 a year more for a specific endorsement covering that.

You might not even be aware of the erosion in coverage until you file a claim. The average homeowner files a claim only once every 6 years, and many policyholders don’t read the disclosures, renewal contracts, and updates that insurers send them.

Outdated assumptions about your coverage can cost you a bundle. Don’t let that happen to you, call your insurance provider today before damage strikes.

Buddy suggest home owners should do the following to decrease their insurance costs!

1. Review Your Policy Limits Once a Year

You want your policy to cover any major purchases or additions to your home. But you don’t want to spend money for coverage you don’t need. Taking a few hours once a year to go over what is covered in your policy can make a big difference.

2. Make Your Home More Disaster Resistant

You may be able to save on your premiums by adding storm shutters, reinforcing your roof or buying stronger building materials. Update your heating, plumbing and electrical systems to reduce the risk of fire and water damage.

Water damage to sheet-rock and drywall is especially frustrating because, while it can be repaired, the cost to do so is often more expensive than the cost to replace it. Swelling and staining are common sins of water damage. If the drywall has been painted stains may not be readily apparent but will show through over time. Re-painting over damaged areas will not solve the problem.

Drywall and sheet-rock can usually be cut in a horizontal fashion, somewhere above the level of the damage and removed. You can replace it with an undamaged piece, prepare it and paint it. If you are less of a handy man and aren’t sure you can successfully hide the seam., then replace the whole piece. Either way, the end result will look much better than trying to patch it with a temporary fix.

Be sure that the wall cavity is dry and water free. Leaving water unattended in any area like this can make it a prime candidate for mold. Any water damaged insulation should be removed and replaced. Always avoid touching any moldy drywall. If you notice a mold growth, have a professional remove it for you. Be sure to wear a face mask when working around drywall products to prevent inhalation of dust chemicals, or other potentially harmful agents.

Did you know mold allergies get worse during the winter?  Indoor heat inside your house pulls air from the crawl space into the living space. Sometimes it’s hard to see the water damage, you may need a professional with a moisture meter and infrared cameras to see if there’s a leak.

What Are the Symptoms?

Symptoms of mold are very similar to other allergies, such as sneezing, itching, running nose, congestion and dry, scaling skin. Reactions worsen in a damp or moldy room such as a basement.

How to Prevent Mold and Mildew Inside Your Home

• Get your house tested for mold. A moisture meter test will help. Also, a dust sample from your carpet can show whether mold spores are in your home. Check with your state health department about mold testing.

• Fix leaky plumbing or other sources of water. If you have mold in your crawl space or basement, locate the source and stop the water from coming in.

If your crawl space has mold, call an environmental service to get rid of it. If a small area is moldy, you can try cleaning it yourself.

• Check inside drywall for mold inside the wall. You can usually smell mold even if you can’t see it. Moldy drywall must be cut out and replaced. Moldy insulation also must be removed and replaced.

• Wash mold off hard surfaces. You don’t have to use chlorine bleach; soap and water, combined with scrubbing from a stiff brush, works to remove mold. Some people also recommend vinegar or hydrogen peroxide. Non-toxic cleaners are also available. Allow areas to dry completely.

• Dry water-damaged areas and items (like carpeting) within 24 to 48 hours of flooding. Don’t install carpeting in areas where there is a moisture problem.

• If ceiling tiles or carpet have become moldy, they must be replaced. Throw out all wet, moldy tiles and carpeting.

• Reduce indoor humidity by venting bathrooms, dryers, and other moisture-generating sources. Exhaust fans in bathrooms and kitchens can help. If you don’t have exhaust fans, crack a window in the kitchen when you’re cooking or in the bathroom when you’re bathing.

• Use air conditioners and dehumidifiers inside your home. Change filters regularly. Use a dehumidifier to get rid of dampness in basements.

• Add insulation to windows, piping, exterior walls, roof, or floors where there is potential for condensation on cold surfaces.