Professional Fabric Protector

After your fabric is cleaned, it will need to be protected. Fabric Protector keeps your fabric clean longer and helps avoid permanent staining. Don’t leave your fabric unprotected. The protector will be sprayed evenly on all the fabric, then brushed in. It then “wicks” into the fibers of the fabric creating a protective barrier against soil and stain. Your next cleaning will be more effective as the protector will “en-capsule” body oils and soils that accumulate on the fabric. When it is cleaned, more soil will be removed as a result of the treatment.

Treated Upholstery will: Last longer, look better and keep looking new. 

Fabric Protection Treatment

  • Has no smell and is non-allergenic
  • Does not change the look or feel of the fabric

How to Care for Your Upholstery and Draperies

  • Rotate all loose cushions frequently to ensure even wear.
  • Vacuum dust and dirt from all fabric, cracks and crevasses.
  • Fabric protection is the best possible way to extend the life of your upholstery.
  • Vacuum often to reduce grit that can cause abrasion.
  • Reverse loose cushions weekly for even wear.
  • Protect from the sun. Ultraviolet light can cause deterioration.
  • Keep pets off furniture. Pet’s body oils rub off and are very difficult to remove.
  • Use caution with clothing such as Blue Jeans. Fabric dyes can transfer onto upholstered furniture.
  • All upholstered furniture will become soiled through use. Most spills and soil on upholstery that has fabric protection will clean easily and quickly provided the proper cleaning procedures are followed. A fabric protector application is not an absolute impenetrable barrier and improper cleaning methods can damage both the fabric and the treatment.
  • Blot (don’t rub) spills immediately with a clean absorbent cloth while the spill is still fresh. Dried spills are more difficult to remove.
  • Identify the cleaning code for your type of fabric. This determines what type of cleaning agent to use.
  • Always read and follow the instructions on the cleaning agent.
  • Use distilled water with the cleaning agent if water is called for.
  • Pre-test any cleaner on any fabric in a hidden area. Check for color-fastness and fabric compatibility.
  • Keep a small spill small. Work lightly, blotting from center to the edges. “Feather” the edges by dampening edges irregularly and blotting quickly to avoid rings.
  • Quickly dry a cleaned spot using a small fan or blow dryer on low.

Cleaning Codes

  • Spot clean with water based shampoo or foam upholstery cleaner.
  • Spot clean with a water-free cleaning solvent.
  • Spot clean with upholstery shampoo, foam from mild detergent, or a mild dry cleaning solvent.
  • Clean only by vacuuming or light brushing with a non-metallic brush. Do not use water or dry cleaning solvents.

Always pre-test for color loss and fabric compatibility. Do not over-wet! Always call Buddy for a professional cleaning or if you have any questions!

Ceramic Tile & Grout Cleaning

Tired of the old mop and bucket routine? Wish you could find someone that could really get your grout clean? Make your tile and grout super clean with our new Turbo Technology! The turbo attaches to our truck-mounted system allowing us to get maximum soil removal and a super clean rinse!

We will clean a small area of your floor at no charge and at no obligation so you can see the results yourself!

How to Care for Your Ceramic Tile

Purchase a high quality dust mop and sweep your ceramic tile floors daily. This is especially important in new installations where the grout has not fully cured. Dirt, mud and sand grind into the grout mortar from heavy foot traffic. Dirt collecting mats should be placed in frequently used entrances and shaken out weekly. We do not recommend the use of floor waxes as they can be difficult to remove from ceramic tile floors. As long as your floor is properly sealed and maintained, you should find no need for these products. Shower stall and tub enclosures should have proper ventilation. Stagnant water breeds stain causing mildew as well as other fungal growth. Mop or sponge your tile down 2-3 times weekly. Mix 1 capful of dish washing liquid per gallon of hot water. Mop up excess water and rinse with fresh water. Mop excess water again and allow to dry. Buffing with a dry towel will help reduce spotting.

How to Care for Your Marble and Natural Stone 

Dust mop interior floors frequently using a non-treated dry dust mop. Sand, dirt, and grit do the most damage to natural stone surfaces due to their abrasive qualities. Mats or area rugs inside and outside an entrance will help to minimize the particles that will scratch your stone floor. Be sure that the underside of the mat or rug has a non-slip surface. Normally, it will take a person about 8 steps on a floor surface to remove sand or dirt from the bottom of their shoes. Do NOT use vacuum cleaners that are worn. The metal or plastic attachments on the wheels may scratch the surface.


  • DO must mop frequently.
  • DO clean surfaces with mild detergent or stone soap.
  • DO thoroughly rinse & dry the surface after washing.
  • DO blot up spills immediately.
  • DO protect floor surfaces with non-slip mats or area rugs and counter tops with coasters or trivets.


  • DON’T use vinegar, lemon juice or cleaners containing acids or marble, limestone, travertine or onyx.
  • DON’T use cleaners that contain acid such as bathroom cleaners, grout cleaners or tub & tile cleaners.
  • DON’T use abrasive cleaners such as dry cleansers or soft cleansers.
  • DON’T mix bleach and ammonia; this combination creates a toxic and lethal gas.

What to Do in a Water Emergency?

A water leak can cause serious damage, especially if it goes too long before it’s noticed. Buddy’s team is available  24/7 so we can respond right away when there is a problem. However, there some things you can do prevent any further problems before we arrive.

Water Damage Do’s

  • Eliminate the source of water
  • Turn off circuit breakers to wet areas to prevent risk of electrical shock. Unplug and remove electrical devices located on wet floor coverings or other wet surfaces.
  • Do remove and secure as many small furniture items as possible to minimize rust or stains and expedite restoration.
  • Place aluminum foil or strong baggies under legs of wood furniture (especially antiques) to protect furniture and prevent the migrating of furniture stain into the carpet fibers.
  • Do hang up draperies and pinup furniture skirts if possible to prevent contact with wet floor coverings, minimizing damage such as water marks, browning and dye transfer.
  • Do remove books, shoes, paper goods, fabrics, potted plants or other items that may stain the carpet. Check under beds and in closets.
  • Do remove and secure breakables, moisture sensitive or high valuable items.
  • Do make plans for restoration crews to remove large furniture items from affected areas.

Water Damage Don’ts

  • Don’t operate electrical equipment while standing on a wet surface.
  • Don’t place newspaper on wet surfaces. Newspaper ink transfers easily to carpet.
  • Don’t walk on wet surfaces any more than necessary in order to minimize safety hazards and to keep from spreading damage and possible contaminates.
  • Don’t activate your heating or air conditioning system if it has been in direct contact with water or especially sewage. It may spread contamination.
  • Don’t leave wet fabrics in place. Hang furs and leather goods to dry separately at room temperature.
  • Don’t attempt to dry on your own. You run the risk of causing more damage to your home or business.
  • Don’t delay! Call Buddy at 417.833.1732

How to Identify Which Type of Leather You Have

Leather is the Mercedes of furniture. When properly cared for a by a skilled technician, it should last for many years. There is a lot of confusion over very basic information on cleaning and restoring leather. It is crucial that your technician be able to identify your leather.

As professional leather cleaners, the first question we ask is, “What type of leather is this?”

Types of Leather:

• Analine – – This is the most natural form of leather. Nothing is done to this material; basically what you see is what you get. This is the most fragile type, yet it is also the most beautiful as its natural color and texture are able to be enjoyed and the leather develops a wonderful patina over time. This leather will feel the lightest and smoothest as it has not received any treatment – it will almost feel like a second skin to you.

• Semi-Aniline – This type of leather is one step away from aniline as it is mildly treated before being made into a product, like leather furniture. It receives a light coating on its surface. This coating might alter the color of the leather a little bit, but not much. This leather will feel a little light and smooth, but will not feel heavily treated.

• Protected/Pigmented – This is the most widely used finishing technique. The finish consists of an opaque basecoat of pigmented resins followed by a protective topcoat. The natural color of the leather is completely covered. Therefore, pigmented leather can be identified by its uniform color.

• Nu-buck – This leather is actually Aniline leather that has been sanded to give it a fine, velvety surface. It should not be confused with suede, which is the flesh side of leather.

• Suede – Made from the underside of the animal’s skin. Soft, more delicate, and pliable than nu-buck.

• Wax or Oil Pull-Up – These two related types of leather are called “pull up,” a phrase originally used to describe the effect on a type of leather also known as “Timberland” after that well-known footwear producer made this type of article famous. These leathers lighten when stretched, bent or “pulled up.” They are categorized as natural because they do not have a thick topcoat.

You can determine what type of leather you have with the water drop test:

First, make sure you conduct this test on a hidden, inconspicuous area of the leather.
• Aniline Leather – Water drop will soak into the leather almost immediately.
• Semi-Aniline Leather – Water drop will sit on the surface and then slowly soak in.
• Pigmented (Protected Leather) – Water will sit or bead up on the surface and not soak in.

Once the leather has been identified, then the best course for cleaning can be pursued. Leather should be professionally maintained at least once a year.

Buddy’s cleaning procedures include:

• Cleaning with high quality products made specifically for leather

• Rejuvenating the moisture and fat liquors that have evaporated.

• Application of the proper protection.

Give our office a call at 417.833.1732 if you have any questions about your leather! 

Better Results with Benefect

Germs and viruses are everywhere. Although we wish these microscopic creatures mean you no harm, we won’t sugar coat the truth. Here’s a brief  list of some of the common viruses and bacteria in our world today:


  • Cold virus: up to one hour on human hands
  • RSV (respiratory syncytial virus): up to six hours on door handles
  • Flu (influenza) virus: up to 24 hours on hard surfaces
  • Parainfluenza (respiratory): up to 10 hours on hard surfaces
  • COVID-19: a few hours to days, especially in cold and dry environments


  • Salmonella and campylobacter (foodborne illness): one to four hours on hard surfaces
  • Norovirus (stomach/digestive illness): several days on hard surfaces
  • Clostridium difficile (diarrhea): five months on hard surfaces
  • MRSA (staph bacteria): days to weeks in hard surfaces

These germs are constantly invading your home, office and car. Under the right conditions just 1 bad bacteria can multiply into a billion in just 24 hours. Germs lurk in places that you’d expect but also in places you wouldn’t.

Did you know that your mobile phone is 7 times dirtier than the toilet seat? [1] It’s true! and let’s not even get into that tv remote in your living room. The kitchen faucet handle at your sink is home to an average of 13,000 germs per square inch! Light switches, door knobs, keyboards, play toys …the list of possible contaminates goes on.

Not every microorganism is dangerous, but we can’t tell which ones are and which ones aren’t without a microscope. Knowing where germs are is one thing, getting rid of them is another. To protect your family from these microscopic marauders you need disinfectant.

Disinfecting is your best defense when it comes to protecting your home and safeguarding your family’s health. But if you’re used to using grocery store cleaners to battle these invaders, think again! National brands use harsh chemicals like chlorine bleach and quaternary disinfectants. Sound dangerous? They are. Sure they kill germs, but those same chemicals can inflict permanent life long damage to you and your family in the process. Not a great tradeoff.

These cleaners irritate your skin and eyes and can decimate your lungs. They viciously trigger asthma. In fact a landmark 20 year independent study published in 2018 proved that using products content chlorine bleach or quaternary disinfectants as little as once a week is just as damaging to lung capacity as smoking a pack of cigarettes a day for 20 years. [3]

Does disinfecting have to be so risky?

At Buddy’s Carpet Care the health of your family is our top priority! After much research we have chosen to use Benefect as our number 1 disinfectant. Benefect has been approved by the EPA to be used against the coronavirus when used as directed. This makes benefect every bit as effective as it’s national brand competitors without the terrible long term side effects. This innovative formula is biodegradable, safe for the environment and safe for the surfaces you need to trust most.

When you have Buddy clean your home, you can enjoy every moment without worry! Calling Buddy’s is the smart and healthy way to cleanse your home and keep your family safe.



What Is Filtration Soiling?

Black lines that appear around the baseboards and under doorways is called filtration soiling.

If you have light colored carpet, you may have experienced dark areas around the baseboards, under doors, and especially near the HVAC return. This soiling comes from air passing through the carpet as it is attempting to go through the edge of the carpet pile. Microscopic particles of soil are deposited there (hence the term filtration soiling). This occurs over a significant period of time and is not noticed until a significant build up has occurred.

This type of soiling is difficult to remove because the soil particles are so fine that they penetrate deep into the carpet pile, sometimes into the backing of the carpet. Can it be removed? Sometimes. With special products, time and effort, reasonable results can be achieved, although not in all cases.

To help prevent filtration soiling in the future, vacuum the edges of the carpeting on a regular basis. Then wipe the edges of the carpet with a white terry towel. Be careful around the tack-strip under the edge of the carpeting, you could nick your fingers!

You can trust that when it comes to your home that Buddy will apply all of his expertise to your job. Click here to read more about our 12 step restorative cleaning process.

5 Reasons to Use Buddy’s Carpet Care

What sets Buddy’s Carpet Care apart from other carpet cleaners? How can you trust that you’re cleaning experience will be better than the last. Here’s 5 reasons why our faithful clients have used us time and again through the years. 

  1. Reputation: At Buddy’s, our reputation is second to none. Some of the most seasoned Carpet Professional, Interior Designers, and Realtors refer our service exclusively. We partner with you to customize our cleaning to your needs.
  2. Experience: Buddy’s Carpet Care is one of the most experienced companies in the country. We have been in business since 1987 and are experienced in all types of carpet, upholstery and rugs. Whether the fabric is natural or synthetic, and whatever the soiling condition may be, we will apply all of our expertise to your job.
  3. Education/Certification: We are certified by the IICRC, which is the most recognized body of certification in the world. Our owners and staff hold multiple certifications including Master Cleaning Technician which is the highest status available for cleaners. we are also very involved in our association. This involvement keeps us on the cutting edge so that we can pass that knowledge on to your job.
  4. Systems: Buddy’s operates the most advanced cleaning systems on the market. Our 12 Step Cleaning Program will get maximum soil removal and maximum spot removal without over-wetting the carpet or leaving a sticky residue behind. Plus, we are committed to first-class service systems. We will show up on time and give you the most outstanding service experience you have ever received.
  5. Guarantee: Last, but not least, our guarantee. Our #1 priority is your family’s health and safety. We want you happy; therefore we offer a 100% money back guarantee. If you are not thrilled with the cleaning experience, we will rush back to your home to make it right. If you are still unimpressed, we will refund your money.

Why is Carpet Protector Important?

Unfortunately, there is probably as much confusion in the carpet cleaning industry about carpet protectors as there is about cleaning. Uneducated, uninformed, and sometimes dishonest carpet cleaners cause a great deal of confusion by giving out false information or intentionally misrepresenting the product.

A nylon stain-resist carpet is made with two protective properties:

  1. Acid Dye Blocker – this is a clear dye that fills the extra dye sites in a fiber. This helps to keep “foreign” dyes (such as red dye in a beverage) from penetrating the carpet fiber.
  2. Fluorochemical – commonly known as 3M Scotchguard or DuPont Teflon. This treatment helps keep spillage from actually getting to the acid dye blocker, but its biggest job is to resist dry soil.

Making sure you have a sufficient amount of protector on your carpet will help keep the soil from bonding to the carpet, making it much easier for your vacuum to pick up. Once the soil bonds to the carpet, it acts like sandpaper on your traffic area. Once the traffic area yarns are broken down, there is no way to bring them back to their original state.

For longer carpet life and fewer permanent stains, be sure to have a professional carpet protector applied to your carpet.

When Buddy applies protectant to your whole carpet, you’ll receive a 12 month spot warranty and FREE bottle of spotter. Give our office a call to learn about how our protectant can keep your home!

4 Mistakes Other Cleaners Make In Applying Protector

  1. Not Using High Quality Protector: Discount protectors are not as effective and sometimes void the warranty of the carpet. Buddy’s carpet Care uses only the highest quality, recommended protectors.
  2. Not using a dedicated container. Using the same container for carpet protector as other cleaners can contaminate the carpet protector making it gummy and ineffective. Our vans have a dedicated container reserved only for carpet protector.
  3. Not applying the product properly. Some cleaners either under apply or over apply the protector. Under applying doesn’t allow for complete penetration on the carpet yarns. Over applying it causes the carpet to become overly stiff and crusty. Our technicians are diligently trained for proper application.
  4. Not grooming the carpet. For the best performance, the product should be groomed into the carpet for maximum penetration. This ensures contact with all surfaces of the carpet yarn and proper distribution and drying. Buddy’s Carpet Care thoroughly grooms the protector in the carpet pile.

Overtime, protectant can be removed from the carpet by:

1.Regular foot traffic. Over a period of 6 months to 2 years, depending on the traffic, a significant amount of protector can be removed from your traffic areas and need to be reapplied.

2. High alkaline cleaner. Uninformed and uneducated and sometimes dishonest carpet cleaners use harsh chemicals on the carpet that will strip its protection. If one of these rascals has been in your house, you may want to have the carpet re-protected.

Ask Buddy if you have any questions about your carpet or would like him to asses if it’s time to re-apply protectant today!

Can Pet Urine and Odor Be Removed?

When cleaning urine spots, there is a difference between cleaning the urine soiling and treating for odor. Cleaning existing urine spots may not remove any associated odor. In fact, it could increase the odor in the air space for a temporary period of time. If you are experiencing an odor problem, there are other treatments available.

Pet urine can cause permanent damage to your floors and fabrics. If can also create an unhealthy indoor environment. When urine is first deposited onto a floor or fabric, it is in an almost “neutral” state which means it is easier to remove when it’s fresh. Once it dries, it turns alkaline and becomes more difficult to remove. If left for days or weeks, depending on the fabric or floor type, it will permanently change the dye structure, therefore causing permanent staining. Even if the soluble deposits are removed, the damage to the dye structure may have already occurred. This means that no one can guarantee complete removal of all urine spots. Please consult with our technician if you have questionable urine spots on your carpet. Do not use over the counter, general spotters or extraction detergents.

How to Clean Fresh Urine 

  1. First blot the area with a white terry cloth towel or plain white paper towel until no moisture is transferred.
  2. Use an enzyme treatment to clean the area.
  3. Rinse and dry completely
  4. Use 1 part white vinegar to 2 parts water and massage (don’t rub!) the solution into the spot with a white terry cloth. Flush the area thoroughly.
  5. Both dry with a cloth until the area is dry to the touch.

*If you have a small extraction machine, flush with fresh water until spot is removed.

Pet Odor Removal Services

Buddy’s Carpet Care has a very thorough urine removal treatment. In this treatment we saturate the affected carpet and pad with an odor eating enzyme. This enzyme is left to work in the are before we extract and flood the area thoroughly with clean water. The area is then re-cleaned. Although this treatment can be very effective it is not guaranteed. The possibility of underlying flooring, wood trim and wall being affected may prevent total removal of urine odor.

Call us at 417.833.1732 for more information about urine removal services.

Wood Floor Rejuvenation

Wood floors are a natural element whose beauty can last for generations if taken are of properly. One of the greatest enemies of wood floor beauty is scratching. Scratching is any abrasion to the finish or wood itself. Some of the major causes of scratching are:

  • Sand/soiling
  • Animal claws
  • Sliding furniture with abrasive/hard bottoms
  • Extra heavy appliances/furniture

Sand/soiling can be controlled with frequent vacuuming, walkout mats, taking shoes off at doors (especially rubber-soled ribbed shoes that rocks can be trapped in). Animal claws can be trimmed to have less of an impact.

Furniture bases must have felt glued on any part that touches the floor. Heavy furniture must be carefully moved with non-scratching/marking wheels or sliders with felt. Denting of the wood can also occur and is permanent until the floor can be sanded and refinished.

Caring for your wood floors entails vacuuming, micro fiber push mops, use of non-residue cleaners, and minimum moisture.

Do not let pets urinate on wood floors as this will soak under the wood and cannot be treated. Do not ever use any acrylic finishes as these will peel and cloud with time. They have to be removed aggressively before any urethane coating can be added and is quite expensive. Acrylic finishes make the floor look like cheap plastic gloss shine.

If scratching or wood urethane wears down to the natural wood, the only option is to fave the wood floor sanded and resealed.

Our professional, deep-cleaning process will remove the toughest dirt and residue, both safely and effectively. Innovative equipment lifts away buildup and rejuvenates floors for a fraction of the cost to sand and refinish.